Thursday, September 17, 2009

Grill Martell House - lukewarm and kitch

Grill Martell House was more or less representative of the restaurants found on the Yumbo centre at Playa del Ingles. That, and the fact that the food was served luke warm, made this a culinary experience I would not recommend to a serious foodie. The sad thing, though, is that there are so few good alternatives.

Location: BBB+

Grill Martell House is located on one of the levels of the Yumbo centre, one of quite a few shopping centres catering to the crowd of tourists that visit the Canary Islands to enjoy the pleasant climate through the year.

The only good thing with the Yumbo is that it is easy to get there, the bad thing is that it is sadly uncharming, especially if you go to one of the restaurants further down on its levels.

Service: BBBB-

You know what to order as there are no lack of menus on English, German or French here. The service itself is normal in this overcrowded tourist machine – OK! You did not have to wait long to get your food, but there are no local charm shown to the guests.

Interior and atmosphere: BBB-

I would call the Grill Martell House interior (if you could call the terrace we sat on that) kitchy. A large number of posters on the wall showing what food to expect when ordering. A large number of slightly uncomfortable tables and chairs very close to each other. One large slab of marble in the shape of a fountain looked sadly misplaced as it stood close to our table.

Food: BBBB

I ordered Sole Walewska – a dish that would suit any Polish Countess. This dish from the old world would, if properly served, be made from a number of expensive ingredients.

The main ingredient is supposed to be poached fillet of sole with crayfish or even better, lobster, garnished with black truffle, glazed with a cream & cheese Sauce (with sherry or Cognac) and mashed potatoes.

I had a good feelings that the truffles would be missing at Grill Martell House, considering the price and lack of ambiance.

I was pleasantly surprised when it was served. It looked decent, and when I tucked into it, I found fish was well prepared, sauce and mashed potatoes creamy and smooth, and prawns perfectly cooked. I had no idea when it had been cooked as the mashed potatoes was nearly cold and the sauce was not properly heated. But the Sole Walewska was not the worst meal to order, I suspect.

Wine - Vina Sol 2007: BBBB

This wine is produced by the major producer Miguel Torres. It is made entirely from Parellada grapes and is recommended to fish, seafood and poultry.

It had a fresh yellow colour, a pleasant fruity flavor with pear, apple aromas and a hint of grass. It was served freezing cold and was a good choice to the fish.

Rating the Grill Martell House experience: BBB+ (3,59 points)

Hardly a place that would please the noblesse, or ordinary food lovers, for that matter. The only decent thing was the food, and it would have been even better if it had been warm.


Grill Martell House
35100 Playa del Ingles, Grand Canary, Spain
Phone: +34 928 76 77 93

Other restaurants at Playa del Ingles

More stories from Gran Canaria

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