New Map of Northern New England!
You will find a map of Boston and Northern New England updated October 25th here. On it you will find restaurants, bars, and sights in the following locations.
Salisbury Beach, MA
Saturday, November 03, 2007
These are the old storage houses located on both banks of the Nidelva River. Trondheim has so much more to offer than I have shown you here on Enjoy Food & Travel. But to get you directions to the sights, bars and restaurants I have told of here at Enjoy Food & Travel, I leave a map of the city and its surroundings.
See all my maps, including map of Trondheim on google maps
Friday, November 02, 2007
The cave paintings deserves its own story, and I will therefore first tell you about the walk into the bush, as there was serious wilderness on your way.
The cabins at Giants Castle are located on the hillside, overlooking the valley. In the valley you find a small stream, where you may try to catch a trout or two. As we left the small village, we walked on a well marked path.
What we were not told, was that you may, in this area stumble upon both puff adders, and green and black mambas, highly venomous snakes. But we walked into the wilderness, in our ignorance, and that is a good thing, as snakes are illusive creatures, that tend to run away as they hear our steps.
We walked along the river and crossed it by a small narrow bridge.
Getting to the cave took more time, that I thought, but on your way you may really admire the changing mountain scenery. The funny thing is that you only find vegetation in the lower parts of the valley. As you look up on the hills above, all you can see are cliffs and hills covered with lush green spring grass.
As we crossed the small bridge, we climbed up on the opposite hillside, that was the hill where the caves where located. Here we left the open air and walked into a dark, dense, and mysterious forest. Still it was spring, and there were only a few plants growing on the forest floor.
Here I found these to flowers, and I am uncertain whether they are the same species.
It was in this forest I found the small posters referring to the different bird species. You remember the Double Collared Sun Bird and the Bulbul?
40 minutes walk brought us to a spot where the Sand people have lived and painted for 5000 years, until they were slowly driven out by competing black tribes and the white settlers, and even these late phases of the history has been painted on the cave walls. Magic!!
To Rom og Kjøkken is a chic restaurant located in one of the old wooden houses in down town Trondheim. This was the third place we found that Siren, my nephews wife, dared to recommend, as she knows how hard I am to please. To Rom og Kjøkken had one of these interiors that used to very trendy, but that you now find everywhere, the service was not the best, the prices were steep, but my - the food was delicious!! So if you go to eat, it is still worth to recommend, but you have to dig deep into your purse. We ended up close to €50 per person, and that included only one bottle of wine for the four of us to share!!
Easy to find, in the small city centre, in one of the old wooden houses. Not the most scenic location however.
If I had visited To Rom og Kjøkken five years ago, we would have cried out loud to a hip and very trendy interior. I have, however, seen these interiors over and over and over again. In New York, Barcelona and Marseille you find places like this. These interiors are simply not trendy anymore.
We chose to sit in a more informal bar setting, but judging by the formal dining area, this was a restaurant with all the formalities in order. White table cloths, napkins, and wine glasses marched up on line like a disciplined Prussian infantry, with knives, forks, and spoons where they are supposed to be.
But was it cozy? No! Were we tempted to sit in the dining area? No! So we sat down in the bar area.
Price level: BBBB+
Entrees from €10 to nearly €20, main courses between 30-40€, and desserts from €10 and up, is expensive. As I was destined to give my relations a treat I dug deep into my wallet, but the food was delicious - even at this price. So when I got the bill close to €200, it was worth it.
Well I do not know why my calculation came that high, as we could have sung "why are we waiting", several times. The menu was easy to understand, and we were served a very good wine, but the service did not stand out. We waited for ages, and maybe the score got higher because of the food.
The food: BBBBB
Let's face it, we were going out to get food, and as we were waiting getting more more and more grim, the food arrived at our table - and suddenly all the bad feelings disappeared.
I ordered monkfish, served with crunchy pistachios and with a well balanced reduction and homemade mashed potato. The crunch of the nuts, the perfectly prepared fish, the seafood aromas - excellent, extraordinary, o yum!!
My nephew chose Bouillabaisse, the famous fish soup from Marseilles, served with the spicy mayonnaise that is supposed to be spread on small toasts and released into the yellow soup like small boats. Here - very balanced, sweet and salt, not over salted like the one I was served in Marseilles, ironically.
Siren chose the calves shanks, served with mushrooms, and a delicious reduction. I did not taste her dish, but she loved it!!
The wine - a white wine from the famous Australian producer Penfolds - and excellent choice!!
The desserts were equally impressive, I chose a delicious parfait with, with a crunchy surface, a great choice.
Rating the To Rom og Kjøkken Experience: BBBB+ (4,367 points)
There were so much that did not add up, but the food was great!!
To Rom og Kjøkken
Carl Johans gt 5
Phone +47 73 56 89 00
Fax +47 73 56 89 01
See their English website her :-)
I, therefore, embrace this and other new traditions but try to give it my own personal expression. My Halloween is a large party for my friends. This is the day before Halloween, in my book. I have made a vegetable and a salmon mousse, and a chicken roulade is slow roasting in the oven. I expect 16 guests tomorrow, including two of my nephews, and new and old friends. I will present what I made the coming week for you. A buffet for 16. My plans?
Here is what I plan to make
- Two chicken roulades filled with sun dried tomatoes, a strong tomato sauce, and cheese
- Vegetable mousse
- Salmon mousse with sweet chili and saffron
- Pate with onion and mushroom
- Prunes rolled in bacon
- Thin sliced tenderloin of pork with onion and apple stew
- Cannelloni with spinach and cottage cheese topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella
- Onion and tuna salad with chili with crackers
And maybe something more, and two cakes of course.
I look forward to once again to meet my friends and family under such circumstances, and my dream is to celebrate the event at the old house on the south coast. That would be neat. Maybe next year!!
Thursday, November 01, 2007
This wine is entirely produced from Pinotage, the local grape variety with a rich fruit character and very smokey, earthy undertones.
The Fleur du Cap Pinotage 2005 has a deep ruby colour. On the nose it shows fruit and berry aromas dominated by plum. On the palate, it is full-bodied wine with rich and ripe plum flavours and, is supported by a good tannic structure.
It is recommended to grilled lamb, poultry, pork roasts and game fish and ideal accompaniment to classic Cape cuisine, such as Bobotie and Malay curries, as well as spicy Mexican food.
A great wine!!
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
I love to find a nice, relaxed place to drink, and I am happy to say that I found my haven in Trondheim at Den Gode Nabo, or The Good Neighbor. This charming pub is located in one of the old storage houses along the Nidelva River - just on the other side of the Old City Bridge.
My nephew told me that this is a bar that gives certain privileges to those that live in the neighborhood of Bakklandet, an area with old beautifully restored wooden houses. Den Gode Nabo issue a neighborhood pass, and if you show it, you get a percentage off the price of a pint.
This makes it the generous neighborhood hangout it is supposed to be. It certainly helps that it serves a large variety of beer brands from tap, the best way to serve a beer drink, if you ask me.
Siren, Hans, and Erling, my brothers second son brought me to Den Gode Nabo for a late night pint. It ended up be four pints and a bitter after a very good dinner (review will come soon).
We had to support the local brand, E.C. Dahls Breweries, a Pilsner, as our traditional lager is named, after the city with the same name located in the Czech Republic. Served in 50 centiliter glasses called a "Halvliter" - half a liter. Cold, golden, refreshing, as only a good pint may be. Enjoyed in the dark rooms in the old storage building.
At den Gode Nabo, I enjoyed a freezing cold San Miguel, in large glass mugs taken frosted in the freezer. I remember San Miguel served the same way in Valencia, during a hot day in July 1996, where the thermometer crept over 40 degrees Celsius or 100 degrees on the Fahrenheit scale.
Den gode nabo was a great place for a tall glass of Erdinger Weissbier, a German under fermented beer. The Erdinger and its most famous Belgian counterpart Hoegaarden, are fresh beverages for a cold summers day, as well as at Den Gode Nabo.
I mentioned the bitter. In Scandinavia, as in Germany we love our Digestif, meaning a Jägermeister, Gammel Dansk Bitter, Fernet-Branca, or my favourite - the Swiss Underberg. These shots are wonderful remedies when feeling that discomfort of having eaten too much, as we had that evening.
I love my Gammel Dansk Bitter, that I had at Den Gode Nabo. This is a drink for those of you that like a drink with a distinct character. These concoctions are serious chemistry made from different herb varieties at 40 % alcohol.
Den Gode Nabo is highly recommended by Enjoy Food & Travel. Good service, great atmosphere, and the largest selection of beer I have seen in a long time.
Den Gode Nabo
Puben ved Lykkens Portal
Øvre Bakklandet 66
Phone +47 73 87 42 40
See the official website here (Norwegian only)
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Along the rocky path, I found these small wild flowers in bloom. We were over the elevations where trees grow, with one exception. There were one species of trees, that climbed far higher than the others, but in general, the surface was covered by rocks or wonderful, green, spring grass.
As I got further up, I found the point where I could turn around and admire the panorama, and this is what I saw.
Isn't this a beautiful place to be??
We visited Giants Castle during spring, and that was obvious as the large variety of trees and plants had started to grow leaves and flowers. In our garden we saw plants that resemble those we in Scandinavia grow in pots in our windows. One of the staff at the reception had told us that it had been a cold winter, with snow even in Giants Castle. But now, that seemed far away.
South Africa has more than 20000 plant species, and is one of the countries with the largest biodiversity in the world. As we drove through the country we could see the scenery and vegetation change.
Up in the Drakensberg Mountains we saw plants that seemed to be endemic to the area. In our garden I believe that many had been planted.
I love flowers, and I used time to try to get some shots showing the beauty of the South African spring. The flowers above, grew up from a plant in our garden with thick succulent leaves, well adapted to drought. Many species of these plants are growing in South Africa.
An old Aloe
A plant I did recognize was the local Aloe variety. These plants exists in a large number of subspecies, in many shapes and sizes. The most famous is the Aloe Vera, known for its healing properties.
We saw these plants everywhere, and they grew to be quite large. I believe it may be the Aloe Arborescence that is found in large numbers in South Africa, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and Malawi. This species has medical properties that rival that of the Aloe Vera. It grows to 2-3 metres, and the old leaves make up its trunk.
This was a large specimen, as Aloe Arborescence go, and it grew by our cabin.
A beautiful Tree fern
If you think this is a palm tree, think again and look closer , and you'll find you are mistaken It is not a palm tree, it is a tree fern.
If I had lived somewhere warmer, I would certainly have planted a tree fern. These plants are fascinating, and may go back to a time when the dinosaurs roamed the earth.
Today they are found in many different tropical and subtropical areas. Many are endemic to the Oceania region, and large areas of tall tree ferns are found in e.g. Tasmania and New Zealand.
We had many of these around the cabins, but these were not seen anywhere else in the wild, and I think they may be planted here. But there are, according to the Wikipedia, thousands of varieties, so it may be endemic to the Drakensberg Mountains.
The red brush flower
This is my name, and I did write the name down somewhere, but I seemed to have lost the note.
This is a plant endemic to the area, and I have seen it before. A similar tree with a darker red flower were growing outside my cousins condominium in Sebastian Lake in Florida, when I visited her in 1989.
Now it was in full bloom, and isn't it spectacular!!
Here you find a map of sights, restaurants and hotels of the city of Bergen
View Larger Map
- Kjøttbasaren (Bergen Food Hall and Fish market)
- Quality Hotel Edvard Grieg, Sandsli, Bergen Airport
- Bergenhus fortress and castle
- Domkirken (Cathedral, Bergen)
- Leprosy Museum
- Nonneseter Convent
- Bergen Airport, Flesland
- Smyril Line Ferry Terminal
Monday, October 29, 2007
To help you find sights, restaurant and hotels Enjoy Food & Travel have visited on our travel, I introduce maps, to help you on your way. As this map of Marseille. You get a larger and more detailed map by using the +-sign, and every point has its explanation. If you want to know more see the links underneath the map.
View Larger Map
Detailed information on Marseille follows here:
- Couscous at Un Escale à Marrakech, Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (desserts day 1 and 2), Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (Duck breast with dried porcini mushrooms), Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (Fried salmon with creamed green pepper sauce), Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (Moules Farcies Provencal style), Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (Oven baked oysters with herb and garlic butter), Marseille
- Eating at "Coquillages" (Salad with seafood and salad with baby squid), Marseille
- Eating at La Coupole (Ducks legs in peach sauce, with fried aubergines and roasted potatoes and leeks), Marseille
- Eating at La Coupole (The Gourmand Salade), Marseille
- Eating at La Coupole (Honey and lavender glaced Duck Breast with grape sauce), Marseille
- Eating at La Coupole (Lasagne with white goat cheese and smoked ham), Marseille
- Eating at La Coupole (Salmon Raviolis with a creamed leek sauce), Marseille
- Eating at La Daurade (The Bouillabaisse), Marseille
- Eating at La Daurade (Profiteroles au foi gras de canard), Marseille
- Eating at La Daurade (Sorbets), Marseille
- Food Markets in Marseille - baking bread for 200 years, Marseille
- Food markets in Marseille - fish and shellfish, Marseille
- Food markets in Marseille - Rue Longue des Capucins, Marseille
- The Abbey of Saint Victor, Marseille
- Fortifications protecting Le Vieux Port, Marseille
- Notre Dame de la Garde, Marseille
Other Maps here on Enjoy Food & Travel
See the map over Barcelona and surrounding areas here
See the map over Bergen and surrounding areas here
See the map over Boston and surrounding areas here
See the map over Copenhagen here
NEW: See the map over Hamar and surrounding area here
See the map on Oslo here
COMING UP: Map over destinations visited in South Africa
See the map over Trondheim and surrounding area
See the map of Tjeldundet, Hinnøya and Vesterålen here
The subject of ornithology has never been my favourite, but staying at Giants Castle may have changed that forever. Here I sat down on a chair and watched birds that flew and walked over the lawn, not knowing what attention they got from an eager foreigner. Here are four different species I saw around our cabin.
And did I get some snapshots. Just look at the picture. I watched the wonderful coloured bird sitting on one of the flowering plants. What I did not see was that its female (yes it is definitely a vain man, here) counterpart that probably was looking with less honourable intentions than I. Remember this is spring, and that has certain unmentionable consequences.
I found a poster and identified it, and its female counterpart as a Greater Double Collared Sunbird (cynneris afer afer), and it is mating all year around, but its peak was during our stay, from July to November.
Then we saw this little guy, and there there were a lot of them flying around our cabin. This may be a Common Bulbul (pycnonotus barbatus layardi), a bird found throughout Africa with a lot of different subspecies.
Funny enough, according to the Wikipedia, that I use a reference, its song may be describes according to this little verse: doctor-quick doctor-quick be-quick be-quick. Funny - as I say it, I remember its song.
Is this a Chorister Robin?
Then I did not see any of the other birds on the posters out in the wood. This black bird my be a Chorister Robin (Cossypha Dichroa), but I am not entirely sure.
The Chorister Robin on the poster had a yellow breast. so had this, I recollect, but this guy may far too black to be a Chorister Robin, as on the poster it had some brown feathers on its tail.
If it is a Chorister Robin, it is a common bird, found in tropical and subtropical areas of South Africa and not under threat, so it will be there when you visit the Drakensberg Mountain.
If any of you may tell me whether I am right or not, I would be very grateful
An wonderful unknown bird
I absolutely love this golden bird, that wandered around on our lawn. This species and the Double Coloured Collar Bird were the most colourful birds we saw. Whereas the Sunbird was more shy, these beautiful yellow birds were everywhere to see.
If anyone of you know the name of the species, let me know.
Sunday, October 28, 2007
It is still hard for me to describe what I felt the first morning I woke up in the Drakensberg Mountains. I am therefore very happy that I have a video that may give you some idea of the moment I walked out on our lawn and watched the spectacular sight for the first time.
Our thatched and very roomy cabin was surrounded by a beautiful lawn. The view from the cabin was remarkable, but we were hidden behind the shrubbery, and as I walked further up the mountainside, the views were even more breathtaking.
The inside of the cabin was as interesting as the outside, as this other little film shows.
The kitchen was not well stocked for cooking, and the sofas were not very comfortable but it was still a bargain for that price.
In front of the cabin there were a paved seating area, and here you could enjoy the view whether it was raining or not as the roof provided shelter from the weather
We paid around 1000 ZAR pr night, but it could easily accommodate three couples as there were three large, double bedrooms. You were constantly reminded that you had to keep your windows closed, to prevent the baboons to come in.
Sadly, I did not see any of these creatures, as there were supposed to be quite a few roaming around in the area.
I loved the cabins at Giants Castle as they were very comfortable and very charming
The west wing was completed during the reign of Archbishop Sigurd Eindridesson (archbishop 1231-1252), around 1250. It was archbishop Sigurd that started the construction of the Western facade of the cathedral based on English models. The rest of the complex, the north wing and a stone wall was completed at the end of the 13th century.
The palace has been ravaged by fires in 1295, 1532, 1708, and 1983. The fortress like character grew during the 15th century during the reign of Arch Bishop Gaute Ivarsson (1437-1510).
During the Lutheran reformation, the Palace became a Roman catholic stronghold under Arch Bishop Olav Engelbrektsson, that resisted the Danish kings. He built a large fortress at Steinviksholm in the middle of the Trondheimsfjord in 1525. The Palace was badly damaged by fire by the Danes in 1532 and bishop Olav had to flee the country in 1537. That was the end of Roman Catholicism in Norway.
From 1537 it was "Lensherren", the administrative head of the county, that resided in the palace and building work and alteration has continued up to the present day.
Today the Palace is the home of the Norwegian Royal Regalia. They are:
- The Royal Crown (1818) made in Stockholm by the goldsmith Olof Wihlborg
- Royal orb: made in Stockholm in 1818 by goldsmith Adolf Zehelius
- Royal sceptre: made in Stockholm in 1818 by Zehelius of gilt silver.
- Anointment horn: made in Stockholm in 1818 by Zethelius of gilt silver.
- Sword of the Realm: early 19th century. Possibly a gift from Napoleon I, to the future king of Sweden and Norway, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, when made Marshal of France.
-Queen’s crown: made in Stockholm in 1830 by goldsmith Erik Lundberg adorned with numerous gemstones (amethysts and topazes) and pearls.
- Queen’s orb: made in Stockholm in 1830
- Queen’s sceptre: made in Stockholm in 1830
- Crown Prince’s coronet: made in Norway in 1846
Sadly I was there too late too see the Norwegian Royal Regalia, but this is definitely on the program next time.
Is there anything I remember from my trip it is the South African wines. I have documented every experience to provide some information of the wide range of producers and grapes they use and the superb quality of the products. For a Scandinavia buying wine, the prices were extremely low, compared to Scandinavia. Here are two good examples, both from the Cape area.
Durbanhills Merlot 2005
I never stop declaring Merlot as one of my favourites. The Durbanville Hills Merlot 2005, was no exception, but soft and comforting as most of the merlot wines are.
Durbanhills Merlot 2005 had the deepest dark ruby colour with purple edges with a multiple fruit aromas of strawberries, red fruit and an intense mint flavour: It was medium-bodied wine with richly concentrated fruit flavours on the palate, complemented by tastes of prunes. It was one of these wines that matched the Boerwors and the smooth velvet darkness of Giants Castle.
Nederburg Western Cape Baronne Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2005
The Nederburg winery was established in 1791 and provides and grapes for this wine come from vineyards in the Paarl and Stellenbosch regions.
The Nederburg Western Cape Baronne Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2005 has a full vibrant violet colour with ruby tinges.
It has a flowery bouquet and a deep fruity palate with blackcurrant and raspberries. The producer itself recommends it to roast lamb, coq au vin, red meat steak, venison, mature cheese, pizza and pasta dishes.
Highly recommendable, and run and buy it, if you can get it where you live.
Looking for another wine?
See complete list of wine reviews here on Enjoy Food & Travel - your source to good wine!
At Macksons, Jan had told us, that the South African sausages were very tasty and well worth a try. We bought two varieties, Boerewors, one large spiral shaped thick sausage and a packet of more traditional and much spicier sausage.
Boerewors originates from the Netherlands and goes back around 200 hundred years, and should ideally be braaied or put on the barbecue, but we had only a pan to use this evening.
And soon the sausages were in the pan with some butter. The large spiral tasted like the sausages you are served on the European continent, the other one had a spicier and Indian taste, probably from curry powder of some sort. Boerewors is not food for those on a diet, and the fat content was clearly visible as the fat got into the pan. Boerewors was definitely one of the less healthy meals I have had in my life time.
Tone made her specialty, that she made more or less throughout the trip, a spicy rice she originating from Latin America with onions, beans, and powdered coconut-milk.
So the first evening meal at Giants Castle was Boer sausages served with Nicaraguan rice and we opened two good bottles of good red wine for the occasion.
More food stories?
Find more food stories from South Africa and around the world here.
We were going to live in a self catering cottage for two nights and needed stuff for two breakfasts, two lunches and two dinners. I had bought four bottles of wine before leaving so that had been taken care of.
Macksons was a large hangar of a place packed with people. We had made a list of things to buy, and we got most of it - at industrial quantity at ridiculous prices. There were, however, things that were difficult to get.
No bacon, was the answer when asking, and the bread for sale was the white sponge that would clog up our intestines. And dinner - the beef under offer, had a quality that probably meant you had to boil it forever, for it not to end up as the beef at BJ's that Tone and Grete had struggled with. So bacon was substituted with Boer sausages (yum), and we bought a huge bag of frozen chicken to eat for lunch and dinner.
Macksons was an interesting place to do our grocery shopping. With the meat (right) you found the Boer sausages, as well as sausage shaped packages of something I would believe to be a spam-like food product on the middle shelf.
In the lower compartment there were packets of large round white cheese and buckets of some kind of dairy product. Being in the US and Europe I always have an idea what things are, but at Macksons I may have needed some instructions, if I would have chosen anything from these shelves.
Let me say, however, that the SPAR supermarket where Grete, Tone and Jan frantically try to find the rest of the food less than an hour before the gates of Giants Castle closed, could have been anywhere in Europe. So South Africa is, indeed, a country of contrast.
And we had forgotten that October 1st was the first day of summer..
And as we drove like crazy to get to the gates of Giants Castle before 6 PM, I read the instructions and it dawned on me that it was October 1st, and the first day of summer, and the time of closing the gates was not 6 PM but 7 PM. Everyone, including the driver relaxed, and we were suddenly very cheerful, looking forward to a good glass of wine and dinner....