Marrakech: Hey - we are certainly not in Kansas anymore!

You do not have to stick you feet into a pair of ruby slippers and be taken by a twister to leave your Kansas. Marrakech, by the foot of the Atlas mountains, is definitely not my Kansas. It resembles nothing I have seen until now. It is an intriguing, chaotic mix of the orient and Africa and very far away from Europe.

I do not recall what I expected by this Moroccan city, as all the impressions left in my inner eye have obliterated all the notions of what I thought I would see.

Unlike Istanbul, it is definitely not Europe. Even though the Turkish metropolis is a part of the Islamic world, I still felt that I was on my own continent.

Read more stories Istanbul on Enjoy Food & Travel

Marrakech, however, is the town of Berber nomads, jugglers, snake charmers, elaborate hand crafts, with an air perfumed by scents of strangely spiced foods. All this left me as mesmerized as Dorothy was when she met the Land of Oz!

I will write stories from Marrakech in the year to come. Still I have to land, emotionally and spiritually, and get a little distance to reflect on what I have seen. Here are, however, stories to come on Enjoy Food & Travel.

Bars and restaurants:

• Al Fassia Restaurant
  
• Café Glacier
• Café Jardin de Majorrelle
  
• Café Olive
  
• Chez Bahia
  
• Chez Ghegrouni
• El Waha Café & Restaurant
  
• Le Fes
  
• Le Foundouk
• Le Toque
  
• Les Terraces de l'Alhambra
• Snack Bar Reda
  

Hotels:

• Eden Andalou Spa & Resort
• Riyad Moulay Siad
  

Shopping:

• Au Fil d'Or
  
• Ensemble Artisanale
  
• Gift shop, Jardin de Majorelle
• Herboriste El Andalouss
  
• Magic Gift
• Shopping spices
  
• Soukhs
  

Sights:

• Almoravid Qoubba
  
• Baadi Palace
  
• Bab Aganou
  
• Bab Nkob
  
• Djemaa el Fna
• Jardin de Koutoubia
  
• Jardin de Majorelle
  
• Madrasa ben Youssef
• Mellah quarter
  
• Mosque Ben Youssef
  
• Mosque Der Bab Ali
  
• Mosque el Mansour
  
• Mosque de Koutoubia
  
• Saadian Tombs
• Sidi Ali Bel Kacem Cemetery
  
• Soukhs
• Yves Saint-Laurent memorial
  

Travel

• Marrakech Menara Airport
  
• Rating the Norwegian Air Shuttle experience

See location of all bars, hotels, restaurants, sights and shops on this map of Marrakech


View Marrakech A-Z 2010 in a larger map

Wine, beer, and liquor on Enjoy Food & Travel 2010

To make it easier for you, I have compiled all the wine, beer and liquor stories on Enjoy Food & Travel for the year 2010 on this page. Enjoy!!

Wine:

• Chateau Lafite Rotschild 1999 (France - Pauillac)
• Nederburg Noble Late Harvest 2008 (South Africa - Western Cape)
  

Beer:

• Wendelinus Biere d'Abbaye (France)
  

Croque at Le Cirio in Brussels

As we arrived in Brussels, I do as I usually do - I take a late night snack at Le Cirio. This time I traveled with friends and we planned to meet at this charming old Tavern by Brussels Stock Exchange, and I knew what I would order - a Croque Cirio.

Le Cirio is one of my favourite hangouts in the Belgian capital. They serve the most refreshing traditional Belgian beer "au fut", on tap. I chose a cold Leffe Blonde.

Le Cirio offers a menu consisting of a few traditional warm specialties, salads, cold cuts, and Croques - delicious toasts.

You may choose from a traditional Croque Monsieur, Madame ( served with a fried egg or poached egg), or a Croque Cannibale - with raw ground meat.

I ordered the delicious Croque Cirio, the house specialty, a toast with cheese, tomato sauce and pancetta, served with salad home mayonnaise and conichons.

A delicious evening snack, when you're not in the mood for a large meal. If you arrive in Brussels on an evening flight, this is definitely something to try.

NEW on Enjoy Food & Travel - Paris

View Paris on Enjoy Food & Travel 2006-2009 in a larger map

I have not been in Paris for several years, but I have been there many times and know the city well. I, and others, have during these last years written quite a few stories from the French capital. I have made a referring list and plotted them onto a map. So, who knows, perhaps I'll travel to Paris in 2010?

Hotels:

• Full-screen
  Ermitage Hôtel
  Hotel used by my friends John and Øystein, when in Paris.
  

• Fleche d'Or Hotel

  Decent, budget hotel by Gare Saint Lazare.
  
  
• Hotel de Lille
  

  The first hotel I stayed in Paris, way back in 1984. Then a very "rustic" place with few mod-con's
  
  
• Hotel Nicolo
  Hotel Nicolo is a hidden gem. It is quiet and charming with a tiny but lovely garden and newly redecorated rooms and very helpful and accommodating staff.
  

Restaurants

• Auberge Nicolas Flamel
  One of the places that I dream to dine, is in Paris. In Rue de Montmorency in the Marais district you may eat in a house that once belonged to one of the greatest alchemists in the world - Nicolas Flamel.Read full story here
  
  
• COMING: Le Florimond
  
  
• Orestias
  Orestias is my favorite restaurant in Paris. It is messy and noisy and the waiters are real characters. They offer a small menu of inexpensive, seasonal Greek dishes.
  Read full story here

Sights:

• Full-screen
  Basilique du Sacré Coeur
  The basilica of the Sacred Heart is one of my favorite places in Paris. In spite of the thousands of visitors every day, it is a quiet place where you can be soothed by the sound of rattling rosaries and the smell of burning candles.
  Read full story here
  
  
• Centre Pompidou
  Closer to Centre Pompidou you find the Paris gay community. And Place des Vosges closer to Place de la Bastille, is maybe one of the most beautiful squares in Paris dating back to 1605.
  Read full story here

• Le Marais
  The Marais area has many old houses and its narrow streets is a melting pot. In Rue des Rosiers, you find the Jewish community side by side with immigrants from Nortern Africa.
  Read full story here
  
  
• Musé Max Fournet de’l Art Naïf et Primitif
  In Halle St Pierre in Montmartre, at the foot of the hill which is crowned by the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, le Sacré Coeur, is an extraordinary museum, Musé Max Fournet de’l Art Naïf et Primitif.
  Read full story here
  
  
• Place de Vosges
  Closer to Centre Pompidou you find the Paris gay community. And Place des Vosges closer to Place de la Bastille, is maybe one of the most beautiful squares in Paris dating back to 1605.
  Read full story here
  

A New Years dinner at Le Florimond in Paris

I got this mail from my good friend John Wroughton. He and his partner, Øystein, had been to Paris over the New Year. Theu had their New Year's dinner ar Le Florimond. Here is his account of their meal.

By John Wroughton

This past New Years Eve (2009), we booked a table at Le Florimond in Paris based on its excellent rating with Trip Advisor.

Unlike a more typical night at the restaurant, they had two table settings (kl. 19:00 and 21:30) with the following fixed menu:

• Pumpkin / squash soup served in its own little pumpkin (not officially on the menu)
• Fried scallops in a morel (mushroom) sauce
• House’s own homemade duck fois gras
• Main course with veal
• Cheese dish consisting of two layers of brie de meaux with a paprika flavored cream cheese-like layer in the middle
• Mousse dessert with a nutty caramelized lattice decoration.
  

Each course was tastefully presented and “delicious” - and we did eat heartily. But I can’t recall any one of the courses as standing out as exceptional / memorable / unique - taste wise.

The pumpkin / squash soup was actually a surprise opening ‘welcome course’. Serving this soup in its own little pumpkin was a brilliant idea – and it was most definitely tasty. And it set the whole meal off on a good note. I’ll let the pictures can do some of the “telling”.

I think we received a very decent value for money - although the drinks we ordered (a glass of champagne each, a bottle of Cahors red wine, and coffee added another 50 euros to the bill – gulp!) But, hey, it was New Years Eve! (The ‘picher’ of water was free, though.)

Le Florimond’s interior is cheerfully trendy without being ‘fancy’ or ‘posh’. The tables were arranged fairly close to one another. The head waiter and assisting waiter(s) were friendly and communicative and the chef, Pascal Guillaumin, came out towards the end of the meal to greet the guests. Putting on and executing a six-course meal must require plenty of thought, planning, preparation and culinary experience.

We most certainly enjoyed the experience, before going out for the New Years “countdown” around the Eiffel Towel, Champs Elysees and finally up at Montmartre near our hotel, L’Ermitage. If I lived in Paris, I would want to go back and try a few of their every-day specialties.

More stories from John Wroughton

Impressions of Italy - the Amalfi Coast

Hotel Principe Eugenio - Rome

Address:
Le Florimond
19, Avenue de la Motte-Picquet
75007 Paris
Reservation: 01 45 55 40 38
Official website

Location of Le Florimond - see this new map of Paris


Vis Paris on Enjoy Food & Travel 2006-2009 i et større kart

The runic stones of Sigtuna

Sigtuna is the oldest, still populated settlement in Sweden. The long dramatic history spans over 1000 years, and has left a rich heritage of historic monuments. Some of the most interesting are the great number inscriptions on stones written in the old Norse Runic alphabet. Here a a few stones found in the centre of the town.

Stone by St. Lars Church Ruin

Translated text: Anund erected this stone in menory of himself, while still alive.

This stone was found by the north east corner of St. Lars Church Ruin in 1956, where it had been laid down as a corner stone of an old wall.

This means that the stone had been placed into the church wall around 50 years after the constructed in the middle of the 11th century. The stone, predating this old church, may be at least 1000 years old.

This stone may be a result of vanity, as Anund erected it in memory of himself, wile still being alive. A very human trait, bringing the voice of an individual to us through history.

Runic stone from St. Pers Church ruin (11th century)

Original inscription: T(horbiorn r)æsti (s)tæin thennsi æftir Æsbiorn, brodur sinn. Their eru synir dyrvis i(........)

Translated: Torbriørn erected this stone in memory of Esbjørn, his brother. They are sons of Dyrvis at (.......)

This runic stone dates back at least 900 years. It was mentioned in historic records first in 1612, as stone threshold at St. Pers Church. Some of the inscription was lost, when adjusted to the adjacent stones in the church floor.

It was drawn and the registered over 300 years ago. The text in the brackets refers to the text visible when it was registered for the first time in the 17th century.

Fragment of three rune stones from Mariakyrkan (11th century)

Deciphered text:

• Rune-stone 1: ......Åsbjørn and kus did......
  
• Rune-stone 2: .....God help the spirit.......
  
• Rune-stone 3: ........after Orm.......

The Church dedicated to Saint Mary, is the only Medieval church still standing in Sigtuna. Here you find three rune stones with inscriptions.

Stone number 1 is located by the main entrance of the church, number 2 is a part of the eastern wall of the Gernerska Mausoleum by the church, whereas number three is found on the mausoleum's northern wall.

Runic stone (11th century)

Translated text: Gillug and Usi had this stone erected in memory of ...... Arne's son...

This stone commemorates son of Arne, and was erected by a man, Gillug and usi, possibly a man's name, maybe her husband? It was found in a cellar wall of a building close to St. Lars Church ruin.

We do not know exact location of this stone, and it is now standing by a building in one of the city streets.

146 rune stones are found within Sigtuna town

These are just four out of 146 runic inscriptions found within the city borders of the town of Sigtuna. They are some of the earliest written messages left by the Vikings to be read by us, and stones like these mark the start of the written history of the Scandinavian countries.

The runic alphabet was not unique for the Scandinavian countries. The oldest date back to 150 AD, but they are in use as a parallel set of letters to the Latin from the 6th century. In Scandinavia they were in use from the 8-9th century to the 15th century.

More on Sigtuna

See map over Sigtuna and surrounding area

Story - Sigtuna - the city by the water

Two gluten free recipes

More and more people are tested to discover the they either suffer from Coeliac disease or gluten intolerance. Erica E. Brady, my American cousin sent these two gluten-free recipes that she'd got from Rita Evans, a friend. The first substitute quinoa with ordinary flour, the other use rice flour, one of the most common flour substitutes for sale in ordinary supermarkets.

Quinoa Veggie Burgers

3 cups (70 cl) cooked, cooled Quinoa – make sure all water is absorbed and consistency is fluffy when measuring.
4 oz (100 grams) extra firm tofu
½ rice French roll processed to bread crumbs or 1/2 cup (15 cl) gluten free bread crumbs
1/3 (5 cl) cup black beans
1 med yellow onion – finely chopped
¾ lb (320 grams) Portobello mushrooms – sliced
1-2 tsp chopped garlic
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp cummin
Splash of Sherry wine

Sauté onion, mushroom (cook all water out of mushrooms) add garlic and Sherry at very end, lower heat and cook most of liquid out– let mixture cool slightly.

Combine all ingredients in large bowl and hand mix, being sure to well incorporate tofu into as small pieces as possible.

Add entire mixture to food processor and pulse until smooth but still with some texture.

Test a small portion either raw or cooked and correct seasoning if necessary

Chill for approx 30 min and form into patties – can be formed, separate with parchment paper and frozen.

Cook on flat top – if using sauté pan, do not cover.

Gluten-Free Corn Bread

Ingredients:

1 cup (23 cl) white rice flour (or other gluten free flour)
3/4 (18 cl) cup stone-ground cornmeal
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
3 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp honey
2 beaten eggs
¾ (18 cl) cup corn niblets
1 (23 cl) cup milk
1/4 (6 cl) cup melted butter

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (200 C). Mix the dry ingredients (flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and xanthan gum) together in a medium bowl and set aside.

In a food processor combine milk, sugar and corn niblets – pulse for 10 seconds. Add eggs and process for 30 seconds.

Add this mixture all at once to the flour mixture and stir until just moistened. Add melted butter and stir until just combined.

Pour batter into the hot buttered cast iron skillet or baking pan. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until a wooden toothpick comes out clean.

Serve warm.

Other Gluten-free stories on Enjoy Food & Travel

• Offering a gluten free alternative - delivered to you!
• Restaurants in New York City: Risotteria

Enjoy Food & Travel on YouTube

As I have traveled around the world, I have taken many videos with my camera. They have, until know, only been available to me in my own library. I have embedded a few, in my stories on Enjoy Food & Travel. Now I have started to make all films available to you on YouTube.

There are 80 films available on YouTube, from different destinations in Europe, Africa, and the US. You can find films from different locations here. I plan to make all my videos available for you to enjoy on my site.

See all my videos on YouTube

New hotels at Oslo Airport in 2010

View Oslo airport Gardermoen in a larger map

Three new hotels will be opened close to Oslo Airport 2010, making it easier to find affordable accommodation close to Norway's largest airport.

Comfort Hotel RunWay

Comfort Hotel RunWay is the first hotel to open at Oslo Airport in the new year. You could book a room here from January 8th 2010.

It is located by the western runway of the airport.

Comfort Hotel RunWay has 303 double rooms, 15 conference rooms and Norway’s first restaurant open 24/7.

Rooms vary in price from NOK 795,- to NOK 1795,- depending on type of room and weekday.

Read more on hotel here

Scandic Hotel Oslo Airport

Scandic Oslo Airport opens on 6 April 2010.

It is located west of Oslo Airport Gardermoen, 6 minutes from the airport terminal. It will be the first hotel you reach coming from the terminal at Oslo Airport, Gardermoen.

Scandic Oslo Airport has 243 rooms decorated in Nordic colors, and offers wireless internet access throughout the hotel. It has two restaurants and one bar.

Park Inn Oslo Airport

The new Park Inn hotel will open late 2010.

It is located beside the terminal building of Oslo Airport. This striking new hotel is designed by the famous Norwegian architect Niels Torp.

Park Inn has 300 guest rooms, including 30 rooms for disabled people and 40 interconnecting rooms.

The vibrant RBG Bar & Grill will offer a versatile menu including mouth-watering signature dishes from the grill, while the bar will be an elegant oasis where guests may enjoy a freshly brewed coffee or pre-dinner drink

Park Inn Oslo Airport will offer a large conference centre with 17 different sized conference rooms.

Read more on Park Inn Oslo Airport here

(Photos: Hotel websites)

Foie Gras from Eduard Arzner - Strasbourg

I have vivid memories of my first time in Strasbourg, when entering the exclusive world of Edouard Arzner, producer of quality food, and in particular the Foie Gras made from goose or duck liver. When shopping at duty free in Brussels airport, I could not resist this package of duck liver with Muscat wine from Alsace.

As I am no connoisseur of these products, I do not taste much difference between foie gras made from duck or goose, so I most often choose duck, being the less expensive of the two.

This package contained two separately packed pieces of foie gras of 50 grams / 2 oz.

A product like this must be served with care. The strange thing with foie gras is that its strong taste meets its match in sweet, and slightly bitter aromas.

As I served them both during a dinner party, I chose a crunchy piece of toast as a base, and topped it with cranberry jelly. Even more sweetness was provided the wine that followed this little treat.

More stories on Goose or Duck on Foie Gras

Eduard Arzner, Master of Delicacies!

Pintxos with foie-gras and blackcurrant jelly

Nederburg Noble Late Harvest 2008 - awesome!!

I have expanded my knowledge of wines recently to Late Harvest wines. When serving foie gras, I used to buy expensive wines from the Sauternes district, but has found that even this region is getting fierce competition from the rest of the world.

Late Harvest wines are often expensive, but I know of one exception. The Nederburg Noble Late Harvest is an excellent product, a real bargain for half the price of many other wines. In Norway you'll get at 375 ml bottle for 105 NOK (12,80 EUR), and it is as good as many of its competitors.

The Nederburg winery was established in 1791 and provides and grapes for this wine come from vineyards in the Paarl and Stellenbosch regions.

Nederburg Noble Late Harvest 2008 is a blend between Chenin Blanc (78%) and Muscatel (22%) grapes, produced by the renowned Nederburg estate in Paarl on the Western Cape. It is recommended to cheese, fruit, and desserts.

Nederburg Noble Late Harvest 2008 has a beautiful deep orange colour, and intense aromas of peach, honey and citrus, and even marmalade, and the intense taste fades out elegantly. It is a superior wine, even to similar German and French wines.

More on Sauternes and similar wines

Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria 2006

Villa Puccini Vin Santo

Château Haut-Claverie 2001

Château Gravas 2003

Another wine from Nederburg

More on Nederburg Western Cape Baronne Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2005

Photo: Paarl Mountain, the second largest granite outcrop in the world by Magnus Manske